parallax0
parallax1
parallax2
parallax3
parallax4
parallax5
parallax6
“ The traveller sees what he sees.
The tourist sees what he has come to see ”
- G.K. Chesterton

Look but no stopping NewfoundlandMade by Jp Valery & Aurélie Boucher

“ The traveller sees what he sees.
The tourist sees what he has come to see ”
- G.K. Chesterton

May 28th 2019 - Arriving in St John'sArrival

We leave Montreal at noon and arrive in St. John’s a few hours later, smiling and eager to explore the eastern province. We have the simplest vehicle rental of our lives at the airport, carried out by a friendly staff. (Literally) 5 minutes later, we are ready to roam the roads of Newfoundland.

For our first night, after supper, we drive around St. John’s in search of some nice spots to shoot. We find a lovely view on a lonely industrial pier. As we are near the end of the bay, the sounds of the city are muffled by the night air. The quiet is only troubled by small waves reaching the pier and the buzzing of electric street lights.

At the entrance of the St John's Harbour
At the entrance of the St John's Harbour

May 29th 2019 - Exploring St John'sSunny St John's

That morning, we head to Cape Spear, Canada’s easternmost point of land. We find it closed, as the season has not yet begun. However, we can still walk around the site and enjoy the endless view of the Atlantic Ocean. The weather is foggy, but it gets clearer as we make our way back to the city.

The house next to Cape Spear Lighthouse, the easternmost point of North America
The historic Cape Spear Lighthouse, the easternmost point of North America
The Dead Man's Trail, overlooking an iceberg
The Dead Man's Trail, overlooking an iceberg
Flora found on the hills of Cape Spear
Flora found on the hills of Cape Spear
The road leading to Cape Spear
The road leading to Cape Spear

And there, immensity stood before us

Endless view of the Atlantic Ocean
Endless view of the Atlantic Ocean
The Cape Spear Lighthouse
The Cape Spear Lighthouse
A vertical shot of an iceberg taken 1km from the shore and at an altitude of 100m
A vertical shot of an iceberg taken 1km from the shore and at an altitude of 100m

After a few other visits, we end the day at another famous St. John’s spot, Signal Hill. In addition to being the site of the city’s historical defenses, it is also where Marconi received the world’s first transatlantic wireless signal in 1901 (thus the name). The view is stunning. We spend a long time sitting on the side of the trail, enjoying the sun. It is about 12 degrees, which is a warm spring weather in Newfoundland. But our Canadian hearts know how to appreciate warmth, even when it is shy.

Overlooking the harbour from Signal Hill
Overlooking the harbour from Signal Hill
The small neck of sea that forms the entrance of the harbour
The small neck of sea that forms the entrance of the harbour
Cliffs on the trail of Signal Hill
Cliffs on the trail of Signal Hill
St John's famous colored houses, at sunset
St John's famous colorful houses, at sunset

May 30th 2019 - St John's > Mt CarmelIce & Birds

The shores of Newfoundland
The shores of Newfoundland
Much like snowflakes, each iceberg is unique
Much like snowflakes, each iceberg is unique
Our first close encounter with an Iceberg in Witless Bay
Our first close encounter with an Iceberg in Witless Bay

We leave St. John’s that morning and head to Witless Bay, which hosts a rich ecological reserve. A handful of companies offer boat tours around it. Even though boarding a boat with 80 to 100 other tourists for a sightseeing tour might feel a bit tacky to you, we highly recommend you succumb to it.

Navigating through the millenial ice colossuses, surrounded by millions of birds...
you couldn't feel more alive

We started hearing the deafening cawing of millions of birds
And we started hearing the deafening cawing of millions of birds
Seagulls flying just over the surface of the ocean
Seagulls flying just over the surface of the ocean
Some icebergs have a pool of water that overflows with the pace of the waves
Some icebergs have a pool of water that overflows with the pace of the waves
Others stand right like giant columns of ice
Others stand right like giant columns of ice
Those vertical cliffs and rocks offer nooks where seabirds thrive
Those vertical cliffs and rocks offer nooks where seabirds thrive

We see so many icebergs. Like frozen giants, they gently move with the waves, like old men in their favorite swinging chair. After the ice come the birds, thousands of them. There are puffins, but also common murres, storm petrels and gulls, flying around or nesting in the nearby islands. We sadly do not see any whales, but they aren’t back from migration yet. Iceberg season and whale season don’t always coincide in Newfoundland; it’s a risk you will have to take.

Through our boat's windows, peaceful giant of ice slide on our sides
Through our boat's windows, peaceful giants of ice slide on our sides
Endless flocks of birds
Endless flocks of birds
Millions of birds from half a dozen of species call these islands home
Half a dozen of species, with millions of individuals, call these islands home
As we reach the southernmost point of Newfoundland, we take some time off the roads
As we reach the southernmost point of Newfoundland, we take some time off the roads
One of the many fascinating landscapes of Newfoundland, where you could believe you're somewhere else in North America
One of the many fascinating landscapes of Newfoundland, where you could believe you're somewhere else in North America

We drive smoothly for the rest of the day, making a few stops there and there to take pictures of the beautiful, empty, poetic landscapes. One thing that surprises us in Newfoundland is how fast our surroundings can change as we travel. That is especially true in the Avalon peninsula, where we go from Northern forests to empty fields, to Far West-like tundra deserts.

In the middle of nowhere, a small stretch of road and a barn are the only reminder of civilization
In the middle of nowhere, a small stretch of road and a barn are the only reminder of civilization
Unless you spot a trailer wreck half a kilometer from the road
Unless you spot a trailer wreck half a kilometer from the road

May 31st 2019 - Mt Carmel > Arnold's CoveSinging Cliffs

Our main stop that day is the mystic Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve. The reserve is well-known for its amazing bird watching experience. Between 60 000 and 70 000 thousand birds roam and nest around the Cape. This includes one of the largest northern gannets colony in North America.

The coastal palette of colors in the morning is breathtaking
The coastal palette of colors in the morning is breathtaking
It seems that each turn of the road brings us to a different landscape
It seems that each turn of the road brings us to a different landscape
We're often all alone on small roads. The emptiness is our only company
We're often all alone on small roads. The emptiness is our only company
Scenic view fom the Cape St Mary's office
Scenic view fom the Cape St Mary's office
Gannets date and mate at Cape St Mary's
Gannets date and mate at Cape St Mary's
The birds and the waves compete for making the most noise
The birds and the waves compete for making the most noise

From the interpretation centre, we walk a trail that leads us to the majestic Bird Rock, home of the gannets. As we approach the cliffs, we are welcomed by the sound of waves crashing and by the raucous song of tens of thousands of birds flying above and around. Though it is our second bird-watching experience in two days, this is something else.

The cliffs are relentlessly attacked by the seafoam and the fog
The cliffs are relentlessly attacked by the seafoam and the fog
Thousands of birds upon thousands of birds
Thousands of birds upon thousands of birds
You hear birds before seeing them. And suddenly you realize the scale of the colony
You hear birds before seeing them. And suddenly you realize the scale of the colony
The birds thrive on those cliff drops averaging over 130m
The birds thrive on those cliff drops averaging over 130m
The weather rotates between sunny and foggy
The weather rotates between sunny and foggy

Blasted by the wind, blinded by the sun, deafened by the birds. Yet our senses never felt more aware.

Some nest, some go pick up materials, none are slacking off
Some nest, some go pick up materials, none are slacking off
Between us and those birds is a gap 20m wide and 120m high
Between us and those birds is a gap 20m wide and 120m high
Some impression of Windows XP in the hillside
Some impression of Windows XP in the hillside
Some empty pastures and fences
Some empty pastures and fences

We keep driving for the rest of the day, along mostly empty roads. We stop by a few not-yet-open-for-the-season touristic sites, that we visit by ourselves. We reach the small town of Arnold’s Cove at the end of the afternoon.

With about 1 moose for 4 inhabitants, hunting moose is just part of the culture
With about 1 moose for 4 inhabitants, hunting moose is just part of the culture
#NLRising
#NLRising
A ship awaits her next adventure
A ship awaits her next adventure
There's always a giant of ice nearby
There's always a giant of ice nearby

June 1st 2019 - Arnold's Cove > Fogo IslandTo the End of the Earth

Another foggy day
Another foggy day
It's not uncommon to run into some wildlife on the side of the road
It's not uncommon to run into some wildlife on the side of the road
A cemetery in a meadow next to a small bay
A cemetery in a meadow next to a small bay
The biggest iceberg we had the chance of meeting
The biggest iceberg we had the chance of meeting

Our aim that day is to get to the Fogo Island ferry, but not without enjoying the sights along the way. After almost running over a coyote with suicidal tendencies in the middle of Terra Nova National Park, we make a detour by Twillingate. The region is famous for iceberg watching. Hundreds of ice monuments drift by its shores every spring and early summer, on their way to St. John's. We eventually finish our scenic loop through the area and reach Farewell, to catch the ferry.

A game of light and shadow, of bright seafoam and dark rocks
A game of light and shadow, of bright seafoam and dark rocks
The beauty of the view makes you ignore all sense of danger
The beauty of the view makes you ignore all sense of danger
School's out forever
School's out forever
Welcome to Farewell, waiting for the Fogo Island Ferry
Welcome to Farewell, waiting for the Fogo Island Ferry
Each box has its purpose
Each box has its purpose
Aboard the ferry
Aboard the ferry
The only way to reach Fogo is by boat
The only way to reach Fogo is by boat

The next 24 hours on Fogo island are among our favorite of the trip. After diner at Scoff, a terrific restaurant in Joe Batt’s Arm, we catch a close-up view of the incredible Fogo Island Inn at sunset. This state-of-the-art sustainable hotel is a masterpiece of architecture. Perched on the rocky shore, its strange shape seems to challenge the ocean. Yet, it somehow fits, like in a curious harmony, with its surroundings. (Side note: it is incredibly expensive, so we did not spend the night there, but the hotel does welcome visitors to walk around and enjoy the sights). It is also a social enterprise that finances an art residencies program. Four artists studios, built by the same architect as the hotel, are “hidden” around the island. Their sight is a bit of a poetic surprise everytime we notice one of them.

The Fogo Island Inn overlooks the sea
The Fogo Island Inn overlooks the sea
While searching for the famous Caribou herd, we stop along one of the island's numerous ponds
While searching for the famous Caribou herd, we stop along one of the island numerous ponds
The sun sets over Brimstone Head, one of the corner of the Earth (according to Flat Earthers)
The sun sets over Brimstone Head, one of the corner of the Earth (according to Flat Earthers)
Night view of Little Harbour and Brimstone Head
Night view of Little Harbour and Brimstone Head

June 2nd 2019 - Fogo Island > Gros MorneLook But No Stopping

We explore the trails and harbours in the early morning
We explore the trails and harbours in the early morning
As the sun rises, the mist lifts
As the sun rises, the mist lifts
The base of Brimstone Head trail in the morning
The base of Brimstone Head trail in the morning
You can spot one of Marconi's installations in the mist
You can spot one of Marconi's installations in the mist

The weather is foggy in the morning. Yet the mist lifts mid-breakfast, as we enjoy Eggs Benedict at Bangbelly, a charming local café. We continue exploring Fogo Island, going all the way to Tilting. Like many communities in Newfoundland, this fisherman village is of Irish descent. Historical wooden houses and boats bear witness to this particular past.

View of the Brimstone Head from the Lion's Den Trail
View of the Brimstone Head from the Lion's Den Trail
Thousands of juniper trees cover the island
Thousands of juniper trees cover the island
Park office on the Lion's Den Trail
Park office on the Lion's Den Trail
One of the artists residencies of the island
One of the artists residencies of the island
The residencies are isolated by design, planks allow you to walk across the marsh
The residencies are isolated by design, planks allow you to walk across the marsh
The walk towards the studio feels like an adventure
The walk towards the studio feels like an adventure
Despite the road signs, no signs of Caribou during our stay
Despite the road signs, no signs of Caribou during our stay

On the way there and back, we hold our breath and survey the landscape, hoping to come across the Island’s famous wild caribou herd. In the end we have no luck seeing it, but we still feel lucky to simply be there.

Seagull basking in the sun
Seagull basking in the sun
Lobster traps can be found pretty much anywhere in Newfoundland
Lobster traps can be found pretty much anywhere in Newfoundland
House at Tilting Harbour
House at Tilting Harbour
Houses at Tilting Harbour
Houses at Tilting Harbour

We catch the ferry around noon and drive for the rest of the day, all the way to Gros-Morne National Park (about 400 km).

The sole house overlooking Oliver's Cove
The sole house overlooking Oliver's Cove
The Fogo Island Inn
The Fogo Island Inn
Another artist residency, next to the Inn
Another artist residency, next to the Inn
The Inn is an architectural marvel
The Inn is an architectural marvel
Despite its original architecture, it feels like it belongs here
Despite its original architecture, it feels like it belongs here

We hadn't left and yet we were already longing to be back

Sadly, it's already time to bid farewell to Fogo Island
Sadly, it's already time to bid farewell to Fogo Island
The ferry is again pretty empty and calm in this time of the year
The ferry is again pretty empty and calm in this time of the year
After a whole day of driving across Newfoundland, we arrive in the Gros Morne region
After a whole day of driving across Newfoundland, we arrive in the Gros Morne region
The view is just breathtaking
The view is just breathtaking
Yet, the signs are clear Look but no stopping
Yet, the signs are clear "Look but no stopping"

Despite what the title of this website might have you think, we did stop a lot to look and to take photos. As you can see above, the inspiration came to us through a road panel in Gros-Morne, which urged drivers to look at wildlife but not to stop. We thought the phrasing of the panel, LOOK BUT NO STOPPING, in big bright letters, was kind of funny. And it also resonated in a way with the relatively fast-paced style of our road trip through Newfoundland..

As we arrive at Norris Point, we get our first view of the Tablelands
As we arrive at Norris Point, we get our first view of the Tablelands
A lonely rowboat on the shores of the East Arm
A lonely rowboat on the shores of the East Arm
Taking a walk on the East Arm with the Tablelands in the background
Taking a walk on the East Arm with the Tablelands in the background
In the middle of nowhere stands a slide
In the middle of nowhere stands a slide
The night falls upon the Tablelands
The night falls upon the Tablelands

June 3rd 2019 - Gros Morne > St BarbeUnplanned circumstances and encounters

Our plan that day is to discover Gros-Morne National Park. It is hard to visit this world-class geological and ecological site in one day, so we prioritize the Tablelands. We also hope to visit the Western Brook Pond and its land-locked fjord in the afternoon, weather permitting.

You can either climb yourself, or sit in the Parks Canada chairs and watch others do
You can either climb the trail yourself, or sit in the Parks Canada chairs and watch others do
Some of the snow starts to melt in early june, creating rivers everywhere
Some of the snow starts to melt in early june, creating rivers everywhere
We start our day with a trail across the Tablelands
We start our day with a trail across the Tablelands
It's said that some of this snow will not melt over the summer
It's said that some of this snow will not melt over the summer

The Tablelands are the result of a billion-year-in-the-making geological phenomenon. Two continents collided and started bringing the Earth’s mantle to the surface, giving the place its red, almost barren appearance. We walk a short 4 km hike and behold the majestic landscape. Small trees and not-yet melted snow garnish the red and rocky soil. Some snow at the top of the "Tables", we are told, will remain year-round.

Some whitewaters form with the melt. It's almost the only life in these arid mountains
Some whitewaters form with the melt. It's almost the only life in these arid mountains
The Tablelands feel like a desert dropped in the island
The Tablelands feel like a desert dropped in the island

As the weather gets foggier, we learn that the Western Brook Pond boat tour will not be happening that day. Rain also threatening, we decide to not attempt the trail that leads to the Pond's shores. From where we stand, we can however make out parts of the glacier-made fjord cliffs through the mist.

Unfortunately, due to poor weather, this is our only experience of the world's famous Western Brook Pond
Unfortunately, due to poor weather, this is our only experience of the world's famous Western Brook Pond
We can't go any further on the trail
We can't go any further on the trail

The most marking encounters are always unplanned

Finally, our first encounter with a moose
Finally, our first encounter with a moose
For a brief moment of time, everything stops and we just share a moment with the animal
For a brief moment of time, everything stops and we just share a moment with the animal

On our way to St. Barbe, where we plan on taking the ferry to Labrador the next day, we spot our first moose (!) on the side of the road. Jp having spent most of his life in France, a moose is an exotic sighting. He was really crossing his fingers to see one (hopefully not one jumping on our car hood) during our trip. As for me, despite being Canadian, I had never seen a moose in the wild. So let’s just say we are both very excited by this encounter. We spend a long time observing the young cow and taking pictures. Unless she was the one observing us? For a short moment, time seems to suspend its run as we are mere feet away from the wild animal.

Hard to say who was more curious about the other
Hard to say who was more curious about the other
And suddenly she parted ways with us
And suddenly she parted ways with us

At our arrival in St. Barbe, we learn that, due to poor weather, the ferry to Labrador did not run that day. Even though our tickets are for the next morning, it gets us thinking. Even if the ferry runs, it might not the following day. If this happens, it will be physically impossible to drive back to St John’s in time for our return flight. We can't afford to be stranded in Labrador. In the end, we elect to abort the crossing of the Strait of Belle-Isle, and to spend one more day in NL

Observing through the window the ferry that was supposed to take us to Labrador
Observing through the window the ferry that was supposed to take us to Labrador
Even the best plans can go wrong and we have to abort our crossing if we want to make it back for our plane in time
Even the best plans can go wrong and we have to abort our crossing if we want to make it back for our plane in time
The misty night is only pierced by some streetlamps and gas station lights
The misty night is only pierced by some streetlamps and gas station lights

Even the best laid plans can go wrong. They usually do.

June 4th 2019 - St Barbe > BotwoodAborting the Labrador crossing

Can you miss something you've never experienced? It feels like it

The snow is just starting to melt in this northern part of the island
The snow is just starting to melt in this northern part of the island
The rivers form some ponds downstreams, with some houses abandoned
The rivers form some ponds downstreams, with some houses abandoned

We wave Labrador a distant good-bye from the shore and head back to Gros-Morne. We hope to see Western Brook Pond this time, especially since our newly-changed itinerary would permit it. But it seems not meant to be, as rain starts pouring just as we reach the parking lot. Instead, we stop by Green Point, a smaller site of geological interest which does not involve a 6 km trail in the rain.

We enjoy some delicious moose at lunch in a Norris Point restaurant and shop for some souvenirs of our adventures on the eastern region before leaving. We cruise through central Newfoundland, all the way to Botwood.

We couldn't forget to mention the rich geological history of the island
We couldn't forget to mention the rich geological history of the island

June 5th 2019 - Botwood > St John'sShipwrecks, Planes, and whisky

At our surprise, Botwood has a rich and passionating aeronautical past. For part of the 20th century, it has been with Gander a stop-and-refuel point for transatlantic flights. Artifacts and memorials attest of this history. The invention of more performing engines allowed for direct flights between Europe and North America biggest cities. This ultimately rendered the two airports almost obsolete. But not completely. Transatlantic flights still sign off today with Gander as they embark for the longest leg of their journey across the Atlantic North.

A window on Botwood's surroundings
A window on Botwood's surroundings
A relic from Botwood's (and Gander's) past as a stop for all transatlantic flights
A relic from Botwood's (and Gander's) past as a stop for all transatlantic flights
A church in the midday sun of Conception Bay
A church in the midday sun of Conception Bay

After a short visit, we head back on the road. Instead of going straight to St. John’s, we make a scenic detour through Conception Bay. We treat ourselves to a taste session at a famous local distillery, followed by some shipwreck hunting across the hundreds of coves in the bay.

It seems you can find a shipwreck in all the coves of Conception Bay
It seems you can find a shipwreck in all the coves of Conception Bay
Less dangerous than moose but not any less worth of their sign
Less dangerous than moose but not any less worth of their sign
Another cove, another shipwreck
Another cove, another shipwreck

We end the day in St. John’s. We have the opportunity to dine at the Mallard Cottage, a well-known restaurant in Quidi Vidi. The place was fully booked during our first passage in the city, so this is a happy (and delicious) silver lining.

In the middle of all the rust, some trees started growing somehow
In the middle of all the rust, some trees started growing somehow

June 6th 2019 - St John's > MontréalBidding farewell

For our last day, we drive around the peninsula north of St. John’s. We catch a few last shots of Newfoundland's majestic cliffs, rocky beaches, and colorful houses. We then head back downtown for lunch, savoring one last taste of lobster at a local pub on the famous Georges St.

Where Pope John Paul II once stood, is now a pretty impressive sanctuary
Where Pope John Paul II once stood, there is now a pretty impressive sanctuary
It's just been a week, yet the hills of St John's seem more flowery
It's just been a week, yet the hills of St John's seem more flowery

We come back to Montreal with our eyes, hearts and lungs filled with ocean air, dreams of endless roads, and songs of lovely landscapes.

But it's already time to head back to the airport and say good bye to these cliffs we fell in love with
But it's already time to head back to the airport and say good bye to these cliffs we fell in love with